Things to do in Naxos: town lanes, villages and local food

Naxos rewards the time you leave after the beach: a small cheese shop in town, a square in a mountain village or dinner in a courtyard. You can start the morning by the sea and finish among marble lanes without turning every day into a checklist of sights.

For a first visit, begin with Chora and the Portara, give the inland villages a day of their own and leave time for the western beaches. Local flavours fit naturally into that plan: cheeses, potatoes, olive oil and kitron distilled from citron leaves. Here are the places and combinations worth knowing.

Chora: from the waterfront to the Old Market and Kastro

The waterfront is a useful starting point, but head inland from it. Chora's Old Market is a network of lanes and shops within the old town. Do not expect a large food market arranged in rows of stalls. Much of the pleasure lies in moving between small shops, cafés, steps and arches linking the streets.

Old Market on Google Maps (opens in a new tab)

Uphill, the Kastro is the fortified quarter above town. Its houses, covered passages and old doorways are as interesting as any single pin on a map. People still live here, so explore on foot and allow yourself another turn into the lanes. Expect steps and slopes; check your intended route if using a pushchair or if walking is difficult.

Kastro on Google Maps (opens in a new tab)

What should you look for in the food shops?

Alongside souvenirs, look for Naxian produce. Around Papavasiliou Street and the port, names to seek out include Koufopoulos and Tziblakis. Rather than asking simply for Greek cheese, ask about Naxos graviera and arseniko, their differences and whether you can taste them. Buying a little for a picnic can make a lovely part of a town visit without booking a whole food tour.

Graviera has a rich, comparatively mild flavour, while arseniko is a hard cheese with a stronger character. You do not need to know every name before walking in. For a guided tasting, ask the shop what it offers and whether advance arrangements are needed.

Portara: come for the marble gate, stay for the view

The Portara stands on the islet of Palatia beside the harbour, connected to town by a walking path. Its great marble doorway belongs to an unfinished temple of Apollo, begun in the sixth century BC. Remember that distinction when you arrive: you will see a monumental gate and the outline of a temple, rather than a complete temple building to enter.

Late afternoon and sunset combine naturally with exploring town and dinner, but this is also a popular visiting time. For a quieter alternative, consider daylight hours according to the weather. Look back towards Chora as well: the white houses rising towards the Kastro are part of the experience. In strong wind or waves, check the path and local instructions before continuing.

Portara on Google Maps (opens in a new tab)

To Elliniko: courtyard dinner in town

To Elliniko is a good candidate for ending a town day over Greek food in a courtyard. The restaurant focuses on home-style cooking and local ingredients, with mother Katerina's recipes at the heart of its kitchen. It is in Chora, making it easy to combine with the old town without another drive inland.

Instead of choosing a dish from an old photograph, ask what has been cooked that day and which dishes feature local produce. If the current menu includes Naxian graviera or potatoes, you can continue the introduction that began in the food shops. Reserve in season, particularly if you want a specific dinner time after sunset.

To Elliniko on Google Maps (opens in a new tab)

Halki: lanes, craft shops and kitron

Halki, also written Chalki or Chalkio, makes a rewarding start to an inland village day. Neoclassical houses, small shops and cafés give you reasons to stop. It is compact enough not to demand a full urban itinerary, but deserves more than a photograph from the road.

Vallindras Distillery adds another dimension. Local kitron is distilled from citron-tree leaves, rather than lemon peel as in limoncello. A distillery visit introduces the old equipment and family story, and you can ask about tastings. With children, the historic machinery and production process may be the more interesting part.

Combine the visit with browsing craft shops and a coffee rather than making the whole stop about buying a bottle. Check current visiting hours in advance. Anyone driving onwards can skip the alcoholic tasting.

Halki on Google Maps (opens in a new tab)

Vallindras on Google Maps (opens in a new tab)

Filoti and Apeiranthos: choose where to linger

Filoti shows how different the island's interior is from its beach strip. The village spreads over slopes, with cafés and tavernas along the main road. Stop for coffee and explore uphill on foot, or make it your long lunch stop. It also offers mountain scenery without committing to the Mount Zas hike.

Filoti on Google Maps (opens in a new tab)

Apeiranthos is distinctive for marble-paved lanes, arches and stone houses. Where Halki invites you into shops and the distillery, here it is worth looking up at the buildings and turning away from the main street. The village also has small museums and a women's weaving cooperative. Check what is open that day and choose what interests you rather than trying every museum.

Halki, Filoti and Apeiranthos belong to the same general inland outing, but you need not fit in all three. Choose two if you want time for lunch and browsing. A car allows changes along the way; with buses, work out the return journey before deciding how many stops to include.

Apeiranthos on Google Maps (opens in a new tab)

Eggares Olive Press: understand what reaches the table

For visitors interested in food and traditional production, the Eggares Olive Press Museum is a worthwhile addition on another day. Housed in an old olive press in Eggares village, it displays the tools used to extract olive oil. This is a focused visit rather than a general museum: learn how olives became oil and ask about the guided visits and tastings currently offered.

There is also a shop and café. Check what is operating for your dates, particularly outside summer. Eggares lies in a different direction from Halki and Filoti, so give it a separate morning rather than automatically adding it to the village route.

Eggares Olive Press on Google Maps (opens in a new tab)

A western beach day: Prokopios, Agia Anna or Plaka

Agios Prokopios suits a sandy beach day with food and beach services nearby. After exploring town and villages, you do not need a remote cove simply to settle beside the sea. Organised sections can be busy in summer; choose your spot according to the atmosphere and sea conditions when you arrive.

Agios Prokopios on Google Maps (opens in a new tab)

Agia Anna continues along the coast, with fishing boats, restaurants and a different feel. Choose one beach and stay, or eat in the neighbouring area. Their proximity does not make them identical, and the walking distance depends on exactly where you start and finish.

Agia Anna on Google Maps (opens in a new tab)

Plaka offers a long sandy shore backed by dunes. Sections with beach businesses and places to eat sit alongside less organised stretches. Choose a particular spot in advance: heading to Plaka does not mean your restaurant, bus stop and patch of sand will all be beside each other.

Plaka on Google Maps (opens in a new tab)

Tortuga: stay in Plaka for a meal

Tortuga is a beach restaurant and bar at Plaka, useful for keeping your meal and beach day in the same area. Its approach is more contemporary and international than To Elliniko's home-style cooking. Consider it when you want to remain by the sand later in the day. Check the current menu, seasonal opening and table reservations; sunbed use is a separate arrangement to clarify with the business.

Tortuga on Google Maps (opens in a new tab)

How could you spend three days in Naxos?

On the first day, explore Chora, browse the food shops, walk uphill to the Kastro and continue to the Portara towards evening. On day two, choose two or three of Halki, Filoti and Apeiranthos, leaving time for lunch. Keep the third day for the western beaches. If the olive press interests you, give it another morning or substitute it for another stop.

A shorter visit can focus on town and a beach. You do not need a rental car for every day: Chora works well on foot, and buses connect beaches and villages, although destinations and frequency change with the season. Check the current timetable and your return before leaving. To compare accommodation areas, explore our Naxos destination guide and places to stay.